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Ultimate Travel Guide to Koh Samui Thailand

You can't see an ad for Thailand without seeing one of the many beautiful islands (there are actually 1,430) the country has to offer. When I daydreamed of our trip to Thailand, in my mind I had all of the quintessential images of drinking smoothies on the beach, swimming in beautiful bays, and exploring the natural side of things like mountains and waterfalls. By the time we had to pick which island we wanted to visit, I was overwhelmed with choice. Obviously, it's a good problem, not a bad one. Hmmm... which tropical island should I visit?

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Why We Picked Koh Samui For Our First Visit to Thailand 

We had a lot of options on the table in terms of the varying types of islands and their main features. Some islands are more remote, while others are more developed. Some islands take a flight, bus, and ferry to visit while others just take a flight. Some islands are in the Adaman Sea while others are in the Gulf of Thailand. We even toyed with the idea of visiting multiple islands in one trip, but we ultimately decided to just visit one to support our goal of slow-travel.

We picked Koh Samui for a few key reasons:

  • An airport on the island makes it easier to access with flight routes from various cities in Thailand, Singapore, and China. We flew into Koh Samui on two different occasions, once from Bangkok and the other time from Chiang Mai.

  • Although it’s a slightly bigger island compared to others, it’s still small enough to get around the entire island in a day on a motorbike or scooter.

  • Being a more developed means that we had lots of choice in terms of places to stay, places to eat, and things to do.

  • Each side of the island has a different vibe to it, so it’s fun to explore other areas and what they have to offer. 

  • There’s so much to do to fill a week like boating trips, touring temples, hiking, exploring waterfalls, hanging out at beach clubs, and really just relaxing by a pool.

We used the Rough Guide to South East Asia to wrap our head around what to do, what to see, where to stay, and how to get around in countries including Thailand.

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Where to Stay on Koh Samui

One of the things we loved about the island was how each area on the island was so different from the others. Koh Samui has something for everyone based on the type of holiday desired. The main regions of the island focus on the north, northeast, southeast, and the west.

The northeast side is the most developed with lots to do, busy night life, and all ranges of accommodation (even a Holiday Inn to show how developed it is). It's also where the airport is located, so it's quick and easy to access from the airport via a taxi. The main temples are also on the northern most tip, so it's nice to be close to those. This area is perfect if you want to be in the middle of all of the action and have a big range of options for places to stay.

The southeast side, or specifically Lamai Beach area, is a little calmer, but it still has a lot to offer in terms of places to eat and things to do. It's a nice, long stretch of beach. There are hotels and hostels directly on the beach as well as some set back from the water. It's a good location as it’s equally distant from the busy north and the very chill west side. It took the same amount of time to drive to the temples in the north as it did to drive to the waterfalls in the west (~40 min).

The north has lovely calm beaches and the more luxury types of stays. This is where you'll find the Four Seasons and Intercontinental types of resorts. You'll still find some smaller, budget, hut-on-the-beach types of stays interspersed as well. It's a nice region to stay in to be close to the airport, Fisherman's Village, Chaweng, and the temples while also still being removed for the hectic and busy atmosphere that is Chaweng.

The west seemed the most remote and most chill. We visited a beach on this side only on one of our days, but we liked it enough that I would look into staying on this side if we returned. The only downside is that it doesn't have as much going on, so you would be more dependent on having a car or scooter to get around. The water is warm and calm, the views of islands in the distance are beautiful, the long swath of beach is a lovely walk, and the resorts along it all seem very relaxing.

The Best Hotels on Koh Samui

Koh Samui Budget Hotel: Chill Inn Lipa Noi

We didn't stay here, but we had one of our favorite meals here. It's on a quieter side of the island set on a very calm bay with water that felt like a bath. We had been riding a scooter, touring the island when we were looking for a place to eat, and Chill Inn couldn’t have been more perfect: good food, kind service, and a fantastic view. Some of the other diners were guests at the hostel, and from some casual eaves dropping, everyone sounded happy with their stay. The grounds looked nice, and the area is fantastic. When we return to Samui in the future, I'd be interested in their double room with a sea view, but the dorm rooms seem like a good option as well. Book your stay at Chill Inn here.

Koh Samui Mid-Range Hotel: Lamai Buri

Perfect for its location that is set back from the beach and up a small hill, you get fantastic views from the ocean-facing rooms and from the pool. We spent a few days lounging by the pool, and we spent another few days out exploring and then jumping in the pool to cool off when we returned. The rooms are standard, but clean and comfortable. There's a pool bar to provide drinks while you lounge. It's also nicely located to the main Lamai Beach area with the famous rocks a 15 minute walk in one direction and a big grocery store 25 minutes walk in the other direction. There are lots of laundry and scooter options in town as well. Book a few days at Lamai Buri, and you won’t regret it.

Koh Samui Lux Hotel: Explorar

The grounds of Explorar are beautiful with clean lines and calm natural colors that allow the ocean views to shine. The resort has multiple room types from traditional hotel room with a view, to villas with plunge pools, and then villas with plunge pools on the beachfront. We partnered with them in return for two nights at their beach pool villa and absolutely loved it. Waking up to the view each morning and seeing the sea from bed was such a treat. I also took full advantage of our private pool and swam in it as much as possible. We loved it so much that we would consider returning on our own in the future, even just for a couple of nights again. It's perfect for that treat-yourself kind of moment whether you're celebrating a milestone or just want to relax.

Koh Samui Wellness Retreat: Absolute Sanctuary

Thailand is known for its restorative powers. It's a place to eat, pray, love, and reconnect with what's important in your life. Nothing facilitates that better than a stay at a wellness retreat. There are countless options throughout the country and on most of the islands. We lucked out in partnering with Absolute Sanctuary because their programs are really top notch. Overall, I was most impressed by their emphasis on body AND mind. I was expecting it to be a lot of working out and eating well and calling it a day. Instead, both Alex and I had deep and meaningful sessions from supportive therapy to reiki and Nidra yoga. The rooms are beautiful and cozy, the grounds feel lux with a massive pool at the center, and the food was fantastic at every meal. You can opt for just a room and pay for massages and fitness classes as you go, OR you can pick a wellness program that packages your stay with a full schedule of supportive activities.

I wrote a full review of my stay at Absolute Sanctuary and tips on what to expect when attending a wellness retreat. Want to see what it looks like? Check out the wellness retreat travel vlog of our stay at Absolute Sanctuary.

Where to Eat and Drink on Koh Samui

Koh Samui Restaurant for smoothie bowls and avo toast: The Hub

I'm almost embarrassed to say how frequently we ate here. It was the closest restaurant to our stay at Lamai Buri so in our defense it was the easiest place to get a meal. We chose it a lot not just because of the convenience but more for the menu. It had both local and western options in addition to the health food focus that you'd expect from a trendy restaurant on a Thai island. It was across the street from a Muay Thai gym, so it was named appropriately as 'the hub' for people who came to train there and needed a place to hang before or after. It was a little bro-y at times as it sometimes felt like everyone knew everyone, but after a while it also made it feel a little more familiar. We tried lots of their Thai menu which was always great in addition to a couple of burgers and avocado toasts along the way.

Koh Samui Restaurant for the view: Jungle Club

The views! This place makes you feel like you're on top of the world. It's perfectly perched on a high point on the island with a platform spread out that allows you to take in the whole east coast of the island. We only came for an iced coffee and a mango sticky rice snack, but the food and drinks around looked great. When we arrived, there was a small wait, but it was totally worth it. They do take reservations, so if you know with more certainty when you might want to stop by, reservations are totally worth it. I appreciated their care for not overcrowding and respecting the space of guests staying at the hotel that they were strict on not letting people through until tables were opened.

Koh Samui Restaurant for local Thai food: Eating Time or I-Sky Corner

Both perfect places if you're looking for well priced, tasty, local food. They both have a fairly robust menu with lots to choose from. For Eating Time, we got there earlier in the evening so there weren't many in, but the staff were kind and food was good. At I-Sky Corner we arrived close to closing time so we were the only diners there, but they were easy going about it.

Koh Samui Restaurant on the Beach: Black Pearl

All around the coasts of Koh Samui, you'll find beachfront restaurants. They'll vary from a shack on the beach to a fancy, vibey beach club. Where we stayed in the Lamai area, there were many laid back, toes-in-the-sand restaurants to choose from along the beachfront. You can really pick any and give it a shot, because I don't think the food or the service differ too much from place to place. We opted for Black Pearl because of it's location closer to our hotel, comfy chairs and nice tables in the sand, and decent reviews on Google. Why we loved it the most: good food with a view of the sky changing at sunset.

Koh Samui Cafe on the Beach: SIWA Latte Beach and Eatery

Further down from Black Pearl, SIWA Latte Beach had more of the trendy vibe to it. It had netted hammocks to sit in and looked like a nice place to post up for a day at the beach. We visited it on our first few hours in Koh Samui when we were really on in search of a beverage or smoothie, and it was perfect for that.

Koh Samui Restaurant for all food types: Will Wait

Talk about a full menu, Will Wait offers just about any food type you can imagine. Pizzas, seafood, Thai food, Western food, it's on there. It has a nice dining area with lots of tables and fans to keep you cool. There were a few cute dogs in the neighborhood who would come in and say hi, but were quickly shooed away once spotted. We had one of our last meals in the area here and enjoyed the easygoing, laid back vibe.

6 Things to do in Koh Samui

Relax on one of the many beaches on Koh Samui

Koh Samui has many beaches. You can easily spend a week walking from your hotel and finding a spot on the closest beach every day. The nice part about staying on a small enough island is that you have the opportunity to visit different sides of the island. You can stay in one area and then take a day trip to see other parts. Getting on a scooter and beach hopping your way around the island is a perfect way to spend a day on Koh Samui.

  • Chaweng is the busiest part of the island with the most shops, restaurants, and clubs

  • Lamai is in the middle ground being a little more laid back, but it still has a main strip of shops and restaurants

  • Lipa Noi is a lot more relaxed set around a very calm bay

Rent a motorbike and ride around Koh Samui

From the moment you arrive in Thailand, you'll see lots of scooters. Scooters or motorbikes are the main form of transportation around Koh Samui for tourists and locals. They're great for getting you from place to place, but they're also a fun way to spend a day or afternoon exploring the island. You can stick to the ring road around the island and make your way all of the way around. You can use it to beach hop and discover new places to relax on the coast. Or you can ride into the interior of the island into the mountains and go searching for waterfalls. It's a very relaxed and independent way to see more of the island.

Tour the temples on Koh Samui

Being in Thailand means you'll find Buddhist temples aplenty, and Koh Samui is no exception. The two most popular, not-to-miss temples are the Big Buddha Temple (Wat Phra Yai) and Wat Plai Laem. Good news is that both of these temples are nearby each other so it's easy to see them both in one visit. The Big Buddha Temple has little shops leading up to it and then a series of stairs to climb up to the Buddha. From the top, you also have lovely views of the bay below. Wat Phra Yai has a series of statutes set on a pond. The different designs, colors, and styles makes it fun to see different representations of Buddhism. We paired touring these temples with spending an afternoon at Chaweng Beach since they are fairly close to each other.

Spend an afternoon at a beach club on Koh Samui

We decided to have a lux afternoon for one of our days on the island and spent it hanging out at SEEN Beach Club. We went with sitting in the covered bar area, because it had the lowest food and beverage minimum, was covered in shade, and we planned to stay only for a couple of hours. We really enjoyed the mezze platter and pizza that we ordered and had fun hanging out in the pool. It had a nice vibe, striking the balance between chill and energetic. Good music and open to all ages including families, it's a nice place to spend a day while on Samui. There are plenty of other beach clubs along the Chaweng stretch of beach including Salt Society and Tropics Beach Club if you want to try others.

Discover waterfalls on Koh Samui

Heading inland into the mountains, you'll find countless waterfalls. With our sights set on Na Muang 1, we ended up going deeper into the jungle only to realize that the Apple Maps location was wrong. Pulling up at a gas station next to another couple on a scooter, we compared notes and learned from the locals that the waterfall was a massive hike from our current location. I checked back on Google Maps and we luckily found the easy entrance to Na Muang 1. This waterfall had a small fee to park. You walk past a large map highlighting other sights to see on Samui and little shops. It's a short walk that leads you to the waterfall where you can climb on rocks and swim in the pool at the base of the waterfall. I was interested in visiting others (Na Muang 2), but based on difficulty to get to and reviews, we only visited Na Muang 1.

Take a boat tour to Ang Thong National Marine Park

This activity takes you off of the main island of Koh Samui, but it gives you the true feeling of remoteness. Although it’s not the filming location for the movie The Beach, Ang Thong National Park was the inspiration and actual destination in the book The Beach. It’s chosen as the island in the book because it is the most ‘off the beaten track’, and visiting it, you’ll quickly see why. None of the islands are inhabited as they are a protected marine park today. We took a tour with 100 Degrees East and really enjoyed it. It’s not a budget option, but we picked it because of the smaller group and their focus on time spent snorkeling and in nature. We felt comfortable, looked after, and fulfilled with all that we saw (including whales!). There are many other options including bigger boats with more people or sail boats that take a slower, more relaxed journey. That said, we were happy we splurged a little more for a great day.

What you need to know before visiting Koh Samui

Renting a motorbike on Koh Samui is difficult

If you know you plan to rent a motorbike while on Koh Samui, try to book in advance. You can ask your hotel or find a rental company to reserve and contact them before you arrive. We weren't sure what our plans were, so we waited to rent one until we got on the island and had an incredibly difficult time finding one. It was comical at times when we'd speak with the hotel staff and they'd say, "Not today, but maybe tomorrow," a couple of days in a row when we inquired about a scooter rental. We had similar responses when walking into town and stopping at different places. We ended up renting one from a hair salon that also rents scooters -- businesses get creative here. But avoid what we did and rent one in advance if possible!

S*x tourism is present

It's present, out in the open, and in your face. I've never been to a place where it's so prominent so it surprised me. From what I understand, it can be common throughout Thailand. Ultimately, you'll walk past countless bars geared towards offering ‘companionship’. We also noticed a few people with a new ‘girlfriend’ for the week staying at our hotel. Not knocking anyones preferred lifestyle, it was just different from what I've experienced before and good to note for families.

Some of the beaches have trash on them

Unfortunately, I'm getting the feeling that trash on the beach is something we'll have to confront more in this modern world. Given that there is a floating garbage island floating some where in the ocean, it's not surprising then that we’re seeing trash washing up on beaches. The east side of the island had the most trash from Chaweng to Lamai we saw trash. The west side of the island on the other hand had almost no trash, so that's one of the reasons we'd prefer to stay there next time.

Cash is preferred or the only option at times

Across most of Thailand, cash is still very much king. Come prepared and bring plenty of Thai Baht for everything from meals to excursions. If you pay with card, you should expect to incur an additional 3% fee on most purchases.

Book Your Visit to Koh Samui

Now that you have everything you need, go book that flight and hotel. After spending a few days gazing out at the water, enjoying the flavorful food, taking in all of the sunshine, and getting to know the locals of this lovely island, you’ll feel refreshed and happy you visited.


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